On the Italian Riviera...

Now, where were we up to...?

Mike and Bev, David and Jill left Oberammergau in Germany about 10.30am, and David's text message said their ETA was about 7pm. 7pm??? David's GPS had told him that Assisi was less than 500km away, so it was a rude shock when he discovered mid afternoon that it was leading them to a town over 200km north of here! Communication with our travellers has often been tricky (quirks of mobile phones and poor coverage here at Paradiso) so it was a God thing that I happened to step outside about 9pm to send a text message and received David's SMS saying they had arrived in Assisi but couldn't get through on the phones. After some confusion (they were waiting for me in the town below while I was hunting for them in Assisi), we found one another, and they spent a week here soaking up the peace and beauty of the house, area and towns. We had the traditional farewell dinner together, this time in our favourite restaurant in Assisi (La Palotta).

Jan and I left early Wednesday morning for the Cinque Terra on the Italian Riviera, the strip of coast between Tuscany and Provence. We decided to check out the old city of towers of San Gimignano on the way, which was lovely, but the lack of detail on our map meant we got considerably confused trying to get back onto a main road, and our journey to Volastra took about an hour longer than it should have. We arrived at 5pm to be greeted warmly by the English owner of the apartment, which was very modern and comfortable, somewhat surprising in the 400 year old house.

Volastra sits high above the 5 coastal towns of the Cinque Terre, and has very few tourists. We felt we experienced a bit of life in an Italian village there. Every cellar seemed to have a wine press (the old wooden ones) and we awoke one morning to four chaps tossing freshly picked crates of grapes into a stainless steel sorting contraption outside our window one morning. They enjoyed our fascination with the noisy process.

We spent 3 lovely days exploring the towns of the Cinque Terra and nearby Portovenere by bus, train and boat. The weather was glorious, and the towns charming - colourful and built impossibly on steep rocky slopes. The most astonishing feature though were the 1000 year old drystone wall terraces covering the slopes and are still used to grow grapes and olives. We saw them up close and personal when we walked down the long and steep pathways from Volastra to Riomaggiore - twice! Our friends at Curves would be proud of us!!

We arrived home on Sunday to three different people - the Marshalls and Robinsons had left for Venice that morning, and were replaced by Lance, Sandie and Deslie. While Lance had a recovery day at home yesterday, the ladies walked the streets of Assisi, were treated to a service and singing by an Irish choir in the lower basilica, and all bought some special things.

We're off to Spoleto and Deruta this afternoon. Jan's just putting the finishing touches to a lunch of crusty bread, cheese and tomato, so I'd better go! Ciao till next time....

Autumn has arrived...

Hi everyone
After 4 weeks of very warm to hot summery weather, autumn decided to arrive with a bang, literally - a fierce storm last weekend dropped the temperature from well over 30 to only 13 degrees. We've actually appreciated the cooler temperatures, and some colour is beginning to show in the trees.
Megan was keen to get to a local market so we discovered one at nearby Bastia. Lots of cheap clothes, household goods and dried fish, flowers galore, and baby squirrels and tortoises for sale at the pet stall. We picked up three colourful cyclamens for 5 euro (about $10) to brighten up the house and garden.

After a wonderful farewell meal at Trattoria Palotta in Assisi (now traditional on the final night of guests to go out somewhere)... ...Bev, Cheryl and Drew drove off last Saturday morning headed for Pisa, Megan and Jeff boarded their train for Rome at lunchtime, and then the beds were refilled with Win Morgan and her daughters Wendy and Diane later that day. They are content to soak up the atmosphere here, explore Assisi and make the occasional journey further afield. One of those was to Montepulciano in Tuscany, nearly 2 hours away, famous for wine, olive oil, leather and spectacular views. I think we must have gone into every shop in the town, but our buying was very restrained. Well, sort of.




Yesterday started perfectly (as far as I am concerned) with another early morning visit to the Hermitage with Win and the girls. Workmen and machinery completing extensive repairs on the building prevented us from entering the Hermitage and somewhat marred the usual peace, but the girls enjoyed the 7.30am service in the small chapel and we all were renewed by the beauty of the forest. There are many corners, outdoor chapels and seats which beckon you to stop and meditate and pray. I feel God's presence tangibly there.
We collected Jan from home and ate breakfast in the sun in the main piazza in Assisi - coffee and pastries. Perfect. A musical about St Clair has been running 3 days a week for the past 2 months, and Win, the girls and I were entranced and moved by the beautiful music, the skill of the dancers and the story of the friend of St Francis who was the first to follow his rule of poverty and service and established the order of Poor Sisters. She was a woman of great faith, courage and deep love for her Father and all people and creatures.
Jan has been desperately missing her dogs so takes every chance to pat one. Many have not been very friendly, but here's a compliant dog she found in Assisi. Notice how pleased she is!

We took the girls up to Monte Subasio to watch the sunset on Wednesday night, and God turned on an amazing show of shifting golds, reds, crimsons and oranges. We're limited to 5 photos a blog, so thought I'd include an arty one I took.

It's raining today, so we're having a quiet day. The girls are packing as they leave tomorrow for Florence, and the Marshalls and Robinsons will replace them tomorrow evening. Jan and I head off for the west coast to the beautiful Cinque Terra next Wednesday for 4 nights, which we're really looking forward to. Probably the next post will be when we return...

Hope this finds everyone well and content.

Marg & Jan

PS. We can access our emails easily, so if you'd like to drop us a line rather than post a public response on this blog, our email address is janmargaret@optusnet.com.au.

The last 5 days have been a lovely combination of exotic activity and relaxing. Some of the highlights are...

. arrival of Richard and Trisha Petro, staying for a brief 3 nights

. a 7.15am visit to Eremo delle Carceri with Trisha and Megan, the serene hermitage built on the mountain above Assisi where St Francis and his friars spent much time in prayer and contemplation - an oasis of peace and worship in amongst the busyness

. shopping in the supermecato in the nearby town Santa Maria degli Angeli - we love the complete aisles dedicated to pasta and wine, contrasting with the tiny section of breakfast cereals, half of which have chocolate in them

. driving up to the top of Monte Subasio at sun set for amazing views of the valley below

. the wine and leather shops in beautiful Montepulciano in Tuscany

. saying sad farewells to Trisha and Ric, but happy hellos to Bev, Cheryl and her son Drew

. visiting the large Tuscan town of Arezzo on Sunday to witness the pomp and colour of the medieval Giostra del Saracino, a day of parades complete with beautiful costumes, loud drums, banners representing the four quarters of the town, decorated horses and pride, culminating in a jousting competition - very exciting, and impressively convincing in the setting of this ancient town

. still more eating of delicious pasta and antipasti in various trattorias and ristoranti

. wandering in awe around the 150 year old neoclassical theatre in Orvieto, elaborately decorated, with 4 levels of individual stalls, paintings by famous artists and chandeliers

. the surprise and delight when my clumsy Italian is understood by a local

And still so much to see and do. The weather continues to be unseasonably hot with cool evenings.

Jan and I can't believe that we have another 4 weeks here! We're loving every minute of our time here, and especially enjoying sharing the delight with of our friends.

Italy - beautiful one day, perfect the next

Again the theme has been eating, drinking and discovering more of the beauty of Umbria. Friday saw Marg take the Leman's (with Michele and Phil) back to Deruta to collect their hand-painted house number, then heading south to visit yet more lovely towns, Todi and Spoleto. Our resident chef Phil Hunter (we wish) cooked a beautiful veal dinner, accompanied by significant amounts of local wine.

While Phil & Michele took off for a day in Siena and Montepulciano, we checked out the Saturday morning Assisi market. Jan picked up a T shirt, a bargain at 5 euro (less than $10). We also purchased plaited garlics, peaches, herbs to grow, a colourful chili plant and delicious porchetta (herbed and roasted pork) for lunch.

Megan & Jeff arrived from Rome by train without their luggage (lost in transit), and we enjoyed a late dinner as the chef did not return home until 8.45pm. With a household now of 8, Marg and I were relegated to the couches which turned out to be very comfortable.

People people everywhere! The ladies intended to go to the Basilica early for a Sunday morning service, which meant that by 7am the place was buzzing like Paddy's market. Laughter, clatter - no point trying to sleep especially when one is on the couch. They eventually left closer to 9!

We lunched at home complete with a 3 litre bottle of red that the Hunter's had bought for us in the wine-specialist town of Montepulciano (note Phil holding bottle!), and all went into Assisi in the afternoon to watch a colourful medieval procession and pageant complete with loud drummers, talented flag throwers, beautiful costumes and amazing cross bow competitions. (Lots of men in tights!!!) It was the culmination of a week of celebrations honouring Saint Rufino.

We finished the day with another simple but delectable meal at Mr Grumpy's restaurant where Fay flirted with an Italian gentleman (well, actually it was his dog she was interested in, but he enjoyed her attentions).

Megan, Jeff, Michelle and Phil left early to head for Orvietto leaving us with the sad task of putting Karl & Fay on the train back to Rome. En route we visited the Rocca Maggiore in Assisi, the ancient fort that sits above the city, and Karl and Marg trudged up the many stairs to enjoy an incredible view from the top of the towers.

There was great relief when the Shield's lost luggage finally arrived that evening. Marg's limited Italian was stetched to the limit during a number of calls through the day from the airline and courier establishing where the house was located! The hot day ended with another spectacular thunderstorm providing much needed rain. A bright double rainbow reminded us that God's in the business of beauty.

The Hunters leave and the Petros arrive - much like a revolving door actually. The 6 of us piled into the car to introduce Richard and Tricia to Assisi (Rick volunteered to sit in the boot) late afternoon and finished off the evening with pre dinner drinks in the Piazza del Commune in the centre of town, followed by an outdoor dinner in a courtyard covered in vines complete with fountain. (Have we mentioned we love Assisi??). We've sent the guests off to Gubbio today armed with maps and instructions, while Marg works on her TAFE teaching unit and Jan relaxes. It's another sunny day in paradise!